Elite bale arm problem

[Memty]

I have the Elite with three antireverse positions with a bale arm problem.

I pull the bale arm back to cast but occasionally when I cast the bale arm snaps back and stops the line.

Anyone know what might cause this to happen?

The bale arm screws are are both tight.

[AshbyCut]

The three positions on the 'anti-reverse' lever on the 'Elite' are :-

a) No anti-reverse, with ratchet.
b) No anti-reverse, silent (no ratchet).
c) Anti-reverse in operation, with ratchet.

My bale arm has never sprung unless I have wound the handle. I can't think of a reason why the bale arm should snap back, unless the spring is either very weak or incorrectly fitted, or the operating lever is worn. Here's a photograph of the one I have on mine :-

[Tinca Tinca]

Yes that with the spring is possible.I had it on mine,too when I got it.This hairclamp like looking
thing has to look exactly like the one on ACs example.If it is a little smaller you only have to
take it out,bend it in the shown position and reinstall it....

[Michael]

Also if the housing turns, during the cast, it can trip the bail...

[Memty]

Thanks.
I will check all these suggestions

[Wagtail]

A long while ago, because of problems with bail arms closing mid-cast when pike fishing (not good) I developed the habit of always folding the bail arm away from the rod to open it for a cast. That way with the weight of the bail arm 'at the bottom' of the spool there was less tendency for it to snap shut on the cast due to momentum and/or the housing turning, whereas folding the bail arm towards the handle made this far more likely. At least that was my experience and now I just do it automatically.

[Memty]

Spring looks OK.

Can't move the housing by hand.

I will try the bale arm in different positions.

[NickM]

I have just a resurrected an Elite. Most of the components were in good order, but needed a deep clean. Unfortunately the tripping mechanism is a tad delicate, on this reel the spring was eaten through with rust. It is easy enough to fashion a replacement, I used some 23 swg (0.61mm) hardened stainless steel wire (as used for smaller spinner lures). It took a couple of attempts to get the hang of what the thing is supposed to do, basically keep the two overlapping plates pushing in opposite directions while exerting some overall force pushing out. The shape arrived at is pretty much that of a safety pin, but open at a right angle. The wrap / turn should be about 3 mm to sit on the post (left side of picture). The clip should easily pop of and back on again through judicious use of WD40 and the blade of a flat screwdriver. The main pain in the anus is getting the sliding parts to glide over each other and in the channels cut for the in the rotor cup. Any tarnish just causes them to catch causing the bail arm to collapse into storage position when all you want to do is engage the bail arm Short of sourcing or crafting pristine replacements, patient scrubbing with a metal polish such as Peek (and fine abrasive only if absolutely necessary) and lashings of grease is the only solution.



PS In most instances I find piano wire is an better choice for fashioning springs, but in this instance my choice of stainless steel was dictated by the fact that the original had rusted through.