The Traditional Fisherman's Forum

I wonder if I might seek the help of more experienced heads here. Through the excellent offices of Paul Cook, I recently discovered that a Martin James "Elmer" rod that I have is probably pre-1914 ....... I had assumed it was pre-1939, but this was a bit of a surprise.

It's my favourite light work rod and sees regular use with a Young's Trudex. However, now that I know that it's pre-1914, I have been looking at acquiring a wooden Nottingham starback - I might be in error, but somehow it seems 'right' as a combination.

Anyway, I have now purchased what is my first wooden 'pin, a Reuben Heaton 3.5 incher, so I have a three questions:

1) Are there any tips or tricks to using a wooden pin properly that differ from metal 'pins? I noted a comment below regarding the ease with which modern line gets round the back.
2) The arbour seems very deep, does anyone have any tips on how I can pad it out a bit before loading my line? I'm not up to much as a maker and mender of things!
3) I have always used sewing machine oil to lubricate. Will this be Ok for the metal parts? If the wood needs treatment, I'm inclined to use olive oil as on my cheeseboard (which I note someone in a previous thread mentions).

Thank you in advance.

Duckett's Canal wrote: ↑Thu Jul 13, 2017 2:38 pm 1) Are there any tips or tricks to using a wooden pin properly that differ from metal 'pins? I noted a comment below regarding
the ease with which modern line gets round the back.
2) The arbour seems very deep, does anyone have any tips on how I can pad it out a bit before loading my line? I'm not up to much as a maker and mender of things!
3) I have always used sewing machine oil to lubricate. Will this be Ok for the metal parts? If the wood needs treatment, I'm inclined to use olive oil as on my cheeseboard (which I note someone in a previous thread mentions).

Thank you in advance.

Most old wooden reels are a lot heavier than their metal counterparts and were traditionanally mounted much lower down the rod handle..one of the reasons that very old rods had shorter handles!

They are also by definition, a century or more old and show it. Because they were prone to warping, there is often a huge gap between line drum and backplate so line trapping will be a regular occurrence unless you are careful. The only solution is to have the reel overhauled and a metal rim inserted to narrow the gap..(see last paragraph)

The arbors were deep because lines were thicker generally and being of flax or undressed silk, " memory" or line kinking was not a problem. Most casting was Nottingham style as you would need a 4oz lead to generate enough inertia to cast off the reel!
Your casting distance will be limited therefore.
To bush up the arbor is not easy as it depends entirely on the individual reel. This has been discussed many times and various solutions are offered, though I personally feel that a custom made adaptor is the only permanent and practical answer.

Reel lubrication then was not a scientific subject then-or now, though many will have you believe otherwise-any oil to hand normally used, so don't worry about it harming the wood. If hasn't damaged it by now, it's not going to.
Normal "3-in-1" is fine and much better than what was used in the past.

Regarding old wooden reels generally, you have to bear in mind that they have already seen a lot of use (and all too often, abuse) so it's a fair bet that both reel spindle and bush are a "rattling good fit!" Likewise the ratchet wheel, pawl and spring.
If you intend to use your reel on a regular basis for serious fishing, it will be well worth spending some money on having a replacement spindle and bronze bush made, plus a general overhaul (straightening up reel seat and handles-and thorough reconditioning to make it a nice, free-running fishable reel for use today.
Depending on what work you have done, such services need not necessarily cost a fortune and would be well worth your consideration and the outlay..

With regards,

wm+

Many thanks Watermole, that's very helpful. I've clearly got a lot to learn and a fair amount to do but that's all part of the fun.

Keep an eye out for one of these Reuben Heaton reels they were made for light float fishing.
Note the shallow drum

Even better if you can get one with this latch they also run freely. They also come with nut fixing

Note the hollowed out spool to reduce weight (1 1/2oz lighter than your trudex)

Just the right time line for your rod.

That's a lovely reel Harry.

That is indeed a lovely looking reel Harry. Thanks for the advice.

I was going to upload some photographs of the one I opted for but am on mobile data and the images are too large. I'll try again when I have access to a better connection.

Well, it took me almost a week, but I finally managed to upload the promised photographs of my reel. I've decided not to try and clean up the wood and brass, I like the patina of age and use. However, much of the varnish is gone, so I'll give it a regular wipe down with a none silicone based wood polish.

Looks very nice DC!

A centrepin as well, very nice

Harry H wrote: ↑Thu Jul 20, 2017 10:12 pm A centrepin as well, very nice

Thanks Harry. She spins very well and with only a tiny gap between spool and body. However, for my first wooden reel, the thing that caught my attention in the first pace was the ambidextrous line guard - everything that old seems to be right hand wind. My 'pin skills tend to fall apart at the hint of a light breeze so I just have one 'pin without a line guard!