Liphook wrote: ↑Sun Jan 09, 2022 5:01 pm
Another thought is does MrZhu still mske/supply silk lines? They arrive looking like a roll of fence wire but actually are nice once broken in (treat then rub back and forth over a door handle, repeat).
I actually found some of these of Aliexpress (though don't subscribe to this model) but curiously they do not ship to the UK!
I recall when they first came out many years ago they were heavy and quite coarse compared to lines line Phoenix and their coating was more like plastic rather than linseed and almost impossible to remove for refinishing. I saw someone at my club water with one and it was so covered in cracks that it looked like Crackle Varnish rather than a fishing line!
Last edited by Sevilla315 on Sun Jan 09, 2022 7:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"their coating was more like plastic rather than linseed and almost impossible to remove for refinishing"
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See above regarding 'Otter Butter' and door knobs. Takes some doing admittedly, but I got there eventually. Mine came with one of his rods. I wouldn't rush to buy either again to be honest. Not rubbish but certainly not the best quality. I was thinking more about a cheaper but still suitable line for your 12fter.....
Thanks for the link to IM Good luck with it all
Well, having sent my 12' Vibration to Paul Cook for refurbishment, I decided to bid on a good 15' specimen on that auction site, and after a little tussle with 1 other bidder, I won it. It duly arrived 3 days later, and I was very chuffed to receive it. It had rusted snakes as described but the rod was in excellent shape. No cracks, the greenheart dark and straight, the cork unmarred and quite good quality. The lined stripper and tip tops look intact, as are the reel fittings and rubber stopper. The original bag was supplied as were 2 pine splice protectors. I will remove and replace the rusted snakes with H&H/Seymo black guides and redo the wraps in original colour. I'm not a builder but I should be able to manage this job. I'll also strip the varnish and apply teak oil as I did with the 12' to moisturise the wood prior to finishing, fishing and casting.
Other news is that Ian Moxon has finished braiding my 40 yard continuous taper line! Now the long process of finishing it, but I can't wait!
My Planets should align (pun intended) in March or thereabouts which coincides with the season start on the Wye at Bigsweir!
This beast weighs in st 23oz so maybe a bit heavy for the Malloch at a mere 20oz but according to Fine and Far Off, the outfit should be tip heavy states "Jock Scott"
Additionally my Continuous Taper Moxon will be able to be used by both rods. As it will not be shot, I only need have the appropriate amount of line out the tip. 29 yards for the 12' and 3 yards for each subsequent foot of rod so this 15' will have 38 yards out the tip.
Please could somebody explain what is meant by continuous taper?
I bought a silk line. I looked after it. It sunk after a couple of hours and sounded like it was sawing it's way through the rod rings. It was useless in a head wind. I prefer my Rio lines.
A Continuous Taper line is one which continually increases (or decreases) like Wulff TT. I read a post which said it was based on Alexander Grant's CT line.
Silk lines are like cars, you can get a Ferrari or a Ford Fiesta. Both drive you A to B but the difference in performance etc, etc are huge.
Most silks are DTs so may have struggled in wind however they say the slimmer profile helps cut through wind.
What brand was it, and was it prepared before use, ie broken in with mucilin etc?
Does a continuous taper line start thin and gradually get thicker until the other end like a tapered leader? If not, what is the profile?
My silk line is a DT and arrived dressed. I treated it with Red Mucilin before each use and dried it at the end of each day.
I found that after a morning on the river it wouldn't float, it was water logged. When I switched to a modern plastic line in the afternoon I had no issues with casting into the wind and the line floated OK.
I'd rather not disclose the brand, the problems might be of my making.
As per Wulff TT thick at reel end and thin at leader end so continuous transfer of energy.
Most production silks are "dressed" though some have been sold undressed, but very uncommon. Otherwise they could be poorly finished then get the bad rap for it.
Normally they need like a week or so of breakin, either from use or manual like pulling it over a smooth shower rail with mucilin or other applied. This is what Yano recommends, a top silk maker. Start with a wide angle then more narrow as it breaks in.
Most silks will get waterlogged at around 6h some less, they say the grease makes the difference.
You can't regrease once waterlogged or you risk getting mould and therefore rot.
Good luck with it all 
