Line guards

[Colonelgsc]

Garry Mills has developed a removable line guard that pulls off and pushes back on without the need to break down the assembled rod/reel. It's a delightfully simple and solidly engineered arrangement; I have it on my two latest purchases from him, the 'Redditch Perfection' and the 'Avon Perfection'. So tickled am I with it, I shall be asking him if he can convert the line guards on some of my other 'pins to this ingenious new system.

[GloucesterOldSpot]

The problem with removeable line guards (as I see it) is that they obstruct the rim of the drum and make it difficult to bat the reel to retrieve line. If the guard is made short enough not to interfere with the rim, it's too short and restrictive to Wallis casting. The caged design gives access to the rim at all points, and is entirely effective at retaining the line where it should be, without appearing to inhibit Wallis casting unduly.

If someone should make a free running 4.5" Rapidex type centrepin - particularly with a wider drum than the usual type - it would be very close to my ideal centrepin.

[Weyfarer]

I cannot bat a reel in the conventional (or at least the oft described) way unless there is just a 2BB slim float skimming across placid water. Anything more, say 3AAA in a swift stream, then I'd mash my palm into a pulp within an hour's fishing. I do it this way: the reel handle is just a bit away from tdc, the rod is raised and straight out in front of me. I place the topmost joint of my index finger against the reel handle and give a swift downward push and at the same time swiftly lower and turn the rod d/s towards the float. The float barely moves but I have got several yards of line back on the reel. I then clamp down on the reel and go back to position one. In effect I am pumping the float as if it were a fish.

Not so long ago I saw some video clips of American float-fishing steelhead anglers doing the same thing.

I await fearsome comments from The Chairman.

[Michael]

I cannot bat a reel in the conventional (or at least the oft described) way unless there is just a 2BB slim float skimming across placid water. Anything more, say 3AAA in a swift stream, then I'd mash my palm into a pulp within an hour's fishing. I do it this way: the reel handle is just a bit away from tdc, the rod is raised and straight out in front of me. I place the topmost joint of my index finger against the reel handle and give a swift downward push and at the same time swiftly lower and turn the rod d/s towards the float. The float barely moves but I have got several yards of line back on the reel. I then clamp down on the reel and go back to position one. In effect I am pumping the float as if it were a fish.

Not so long ago I saw some video clips of American float-fishing steelhead anglers doing the same thing.

I await fearsome comments from The Chairman.

Thats why at the moment or until my hands improve, I use the Bewick, its soooo light I can bat away to my hearts content, though it is dependant, as Weyfarer stated, on what float set up is being used.

[Tony1964]

I have so much to learn. Might get some practice in if the wind would die down for a few hours.

[Chevin]

Having the line off the top is supposed to help eliminate the line wrapping around the back, not sure I could get the hang of winding in the opposite direction though.

On the topic of batting, I was advised by an old gent not to as it can damage the pin, it has always stuck with me so I tend to use my finger inserted into the drum.

[Macko]

If you want a line guard and still be able to Wallis cast,take a look at the JW Young 2051CL, absolutely brilliant reels. Even better than the Bob James c/p which was designed for Wallis casting,in my opinion.
And great for batting on the retreive.