Re: Mordex Ideal Float Fishing Rod
Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 6:21 pm
It's worth bearing in mind that it costs just as much to restore a first class desirable rod as it does a beanpole, so be wary of buying delapidated third-rate rods for restoration - unless you want to use them for practice of course. My basic rule is this; I avoid any rod that is not full length unless it's a really first class rod and the purchase price leaves enough in it to make it worth getting a new top made, which is sometimes possible on three-piece rods, but rarely so on two-piece ones. At Romsey last October there were two Hardy Perfection Roach rods for sale, of similar vintage; one was full length and had an asking price of about four hundred pounds, the other was short by about four inches and less than a hundred. It would seem tempting to buy the cheap one and get a new tip made, but that would cost about £150 just for the cane; you then have to remove the existing ferrule, fit it, whip it all up again to match the butt, find an original tip ring (this was missing from the shortened rod) and even when you've done all this you have a rod that is not as valuable as the all-original one.
I also now avoid any rod that is never going to be any better than mediocre, regardless of any fancy fittings and shiny varnish I might apply. I know for a fact I could 'do up' some real dogs and sell them on at a profit to those who don't know any better, but I refuse to do so. If I sell someone a rod it will either be be fit for purpose or the buyer will be made aware of any faults still present.
Sets I can deal with, though I won't attempt to correct a set in a hollow-built section. Rusty rings, crappy cork, bad refurbishment by previous owners is no problem to correct, always assuming the rod is worth the effort. Missing transfers don't worry me unduly, as they don't affect the rod's function one iota, though they do lower the value. Ferrules can be a problem if they need replacing, but I've learnt how to fix slightly loose ones and tidy up unsightly ones, so as long as they're not cracked or bent out of shape, or excessively worn, I'm happy to retain them.
To be honest, having spent twenty-odd years sourcing bargain cane rods in varying states of disrepair, and learning quite a bit about what is possible by way of restoration (and what is completely pointless) I have accumulated a few decent sticks fairly economically (and made a small profit on quite a few others) but nowadays I'm more inclined to pay a higher price for one top-end rod in really good condition than buy six restoration projects I'll never get around to. This reversal of attitude probably reflects my changed circumstances over the years, but it is also driven by experience, and some disappointment. Given the choice between a near mint rod and a used but sound one of the same model, I will take the mint one unless the price difference is exceptional. Offer me a full length but tatty and bent gold label Wizard at £150 or a really nice straight one at £300 and I'll take the latter.
My limited rod building time these days is devoted to making new cane fly rods. The next project is an eight foot Garrison 212 on a Chapman blank, which I propose to finish exactly to Everett Garrison's specifications. I have a spool of Naples silk ready and waiting. The hard bit will be sourcing bronzed snake guides in the UK - I may have to get them from the US and take my chances with the UK import racketeers.
I also now avoid any rod that is never going to be any better than mediocre, regardless of any fancy fittings and shiny varnish I might apply. I know for a fact I could 'do up' some real dogs and sell them on at a profit to those who don't know any better, but I refuse to do so. If I sell someone a rod it will either be be fit for purpose or the buyer will be made aware of any faults still present.
Sets I can deal with, though I won't attempt to correct a set in a hollow-built section. Rusty rings, crappy cork, bad refurbishment by previous owners is no problem to correct, always assuming the rod is worth the effort. Missing transfers don't worry me unduly, as they don't affect the rod's function one iota, though they do lower the value. Ferrules can be a problem if they need replacing, but I've learnt how to fix slightly loose ones and tidy up unsightly ones, so as long as they're not cracked or bent out of shape, or excessively worn, I'm happy to retain them.
To be honest, having spent twenty-odd years sourcing bargain cane rods in varying states of disrepair, and learning quite a bit about what is possible by way of restoration (and what is completely pointless) I have accumulated a few decent sticks fairly economically (and made a small profit on quite a few others) but nowadays I'm more inclined to pay a higher price for one top-end rod in really good condition than buy six restoration projects I'll never get around to. This reversal of attitude probably reflects my changed circumstances over the years, but it is also driven by experience, and some disappointment. Given the choice between a near mint rod and a used but sound one of the same model, I will take the mint one unless the price difference is exceptional. Offer me a full length but tatty and bent gold label Wizard at £150 or a really nice straight one at £300 and I'll take the latter.
My limited rod building time these days is devoted to making new cane fly rods. The next project is an eight foot Garrison 212 on a Chapman blank, which I propose to finish exactly to Everett Garrison's specifications. I have a spool of Naples silk ready and waiting. The hard bit will be sourcing bronzed snake guides in the UK - I may have to get them from the US and take my chances with the UK import racketeers.
