The Traditional Fisherman's Forum

I really do hate the term of this so called BOLT fishing technique, what a horrible term, it really does sadden me. It sounds like something akin to being in a slaughter house.

Interesting & I hope Merlot - another string to one's bow!

In lift float fishing the weight of the shot is all but compensated for by the uplift of the rising float and so this means the fish does not feel the weight of even a large (SSG) shot. This only works if it is balanced so the float just sinks under the weight of the shot.

The principle of the lift method is to over-shot your float and fish with all of the weight laid on the bottom. The float is set slightly over depth, so that when the rod is set up on rests, the float can be made to sit upright by simply tightening the line, so you can finely adjust how much float tip is visible. When a fish takes your bait, say tench from the vertical position the shot is lifted from the lake bed, which causes your float to lift out of the water, sometimes even laying horizontal on the surface! It is this action from where the method derives its name. Very often, however, you'll notice knocks on the float tip before it disappears, just as you would with a waggler. Either of these bite indications are positive enough to justify a strike. I was only mentioning the unfortunately named bolt/shock method as a long range alternative

As an alternative for longer range fishing I would always opt for either a driftbeater set up or float legering in conjunction with a running lead to anchor the bait when there is a stronger underwater tow. When float legering I also add a few shot between the running lead and float so that the fish doesn't have to pull against the full buoyancy of the float. When float fishing whatever style I use I always try to keep resistance to the absolute minimum, I see no point in increasing resistance when using floats.

Another way of looking at it would be to think of the "tell" shot as a very light #6 or #8 -almost "dust" . I don't think a Carp would feel much resistance on the pickup. This brings up another vexing question concerning the size of float which in turn is governed by the depth, current, & mood of fish. Some I have heard use just one and only one shot near the hook link. Would not work at depths deeper than 2ft. I am guessing that large Common Carp are not too wary just moody. The larger floats seem to be more "sensitive" however need more shotting

Merlot wrote:The principle of the lift method is to over-shot your float and fish with all of the weight laid on the bottom. The float is set slightly over depth, so that when the rod is set up on rests, the float can be made to sit upright by simply tightening the line, so you can finely adjust how much float tip is visible. When a fish takes your bait, say tench from the vertical position the shot is lifted from the lake bed, which causes your float to lift out of the water, sometimes even laying horizontal on the surface! It is this action from where the method derives its name. Very often, however, you'll notice knocks on the float tip before it disappears, just as you would with a waggler. Either of these bite indications are positive enough to justify a strike. I was only mentioning the unfortunately named bolt/shock method as a long range alternative

Hi Merlot, hope you're keeping well - I'd go further and state that if you delayed the strike to allow the float to go horizontal you'd miss the fish. Hence the 'lift' method - you strike on the lift.

An alternative version I have had success with is 'dobbing'. Use a large heavy bait eg bunch of lobs, large piece of luncheon meat or whole king prawn which will sink a small float and fish at dead depth so only the tip of the float shows. This is effectively freelining and can be very effective for wary fish and is excellent for catching tench by lowering into holes in lily beds. Hang on tight though!

Yes, good call Snape - 'dobbing' works very well with a lump of paste as well...........Not to be confused with ’bobbing’ for eels which was done by fixing worms to a length of wool and winding into a ball tied to your line. The eels tend to get fastened to the ball and you then pull them out of the water

JerryC wrote:

Merlot wrote:The principle of the lift method is to over-shot your float and fish with all of the weight laid on the bottom. The float is set slightly over depth, so that when the rod is set up on rests, the float can be made to sit upright by simply tightening the line, so you can finely adjust how much float tip is visible. When a fish takes your bait, say tench from the vertical position the shot is lifted from the lake bed, which causes your float to lift out of the water, sometimes even laying horizontal on the surface! It is this action from where the method derives its name. Very often, however, you'll notice knocks on the float tip before it disappears, just as you would with a waggler. Either of these bite indications are positive enough to justify a strike. I was only mentioning the unfortunately named bolt/shock method as a long range alternative

Hi Merlot, hope you're keeping well - I'd go further and state that if you delayed the strike to allow the float to go horizontal you'd miss the fish. Hence the 'lift' method - you strike on the lift.

I am young sir, thank you for asking. Its only happened to me once, I was half asleep, as soon as the float begins to rise, I strike.