Oils for treating wooden reels

[Duckett]

Now, I have no idea why, but I much prefer the feel of a wooden reel that has been oil treated rather than varnished.

In the past, I’ve used Boiled Linseed Oil but, having read about this and some other oils, I’d like to try something a bit more environmentally friendly (and safer!).

I was talking about this to an Italian friend who is a chef and an angler. His suggestion was to try Tung Oil. He says he was trained to use it to treat wooden chopping boards and cheeseboards, that it’s completely safe, easy to use and that he now uses it for all his wood oiling, indoors and outdoors.

I plan to give it a go on a wooden reel I recently acquired but wondered if anyone else had tried Tung Oil?

Cheers,

Phil

[Catfish.017]

I've used Tung oil on something but can't for the life of me remember what? On my Morris Traveller woodwork (Ash) I used Danish oil which I have an inking is part Tung oil? Much better than varnish just needed topping up twice a year but simple to use.

[Old Man River]

Danish oil gives a really nice finish to the wood , I use it on Ash net frames and it has a lovely warm glow, in fact I used it in this reel recently .





David

[Grumpy]

Tung oil,danish oil and finishing oil are all good for wood.All oils may raise the grain a little.Cut back with 0000 wire wool and recoat.You will get a lovely silky finish.

[StefanDuma]

I have lots of wooden reels and I have never varnished one or treated any with any type of oil.

I used a silicon impregnated cloth and just rub the reel with that. Gunsmiths supply them for use on walnut stocks.

[Liphook]

Oiling, feeding , lacquering, varnishing, polishing now there's a topic! A leading gun stock maker told me that only pure cold pressed straight from the fresh nut walnut oil truly feeds walnut, everything else (unsurprisingly, though it felt like a revelation at the time) including silicon is a topical treatment that may add a 'protective layer' in the form of a 'sheen' or act as a dam on the oils retained/being lost within the original wood. Danish oil is not a strict product or recipe but a fairly general marketing name. Tung oil.... neatsfoot... all of them are blends up to a point ie 100% purity of a single true oil. It's noticeable that mineral oils associated with lubrication of mechanical metal parts actually damage walnut, beech, iroku, birch, oak, maple etc where they can gain entry beyond the 'original finish' (often just 'natural' oil mixes in the case of gun stocks) particularly in areas where there is end grain access via screw holes, recessing, milling etc
Best advice he tells me, providing the wood is not damaged or requiring feeding or repair to 'original finish', is to stick to one single form of topical treatment like a furniture polish (be it with beeswax or silicone) or a brand of impregnated cloth but not to mix products as this can lead to problems.

[StefanDuma]

Thank you Liphook sound like good advice.

[Duckett]

Thanks for all of the helpful comments! I now need to go away and have a little think!

Phil

[StefanDuma]

This reel circa 1848 was initially cleaned with a wet cloth, then I used a soft shoe polish brush used for buffing shoes not applying polish.

Finished with the silicon cloth.

wood.jpg

wood1.jpg

[Aquaerial]

Once a day for a week, twice a week for a month, once a month for a year.....
The reel must be completely stripped of all varnish. I use a planet friendly stripper!
Then washed and dried thoroughly.
For colour I use alkanet oil till I achieve the desired shade after which a gunstock oil followed by a mixture of gunstock oil and shellac. Don't use the shellac mixture, a hardener, until you are satisfied with finish.
Go steady using all sparingly and the finish is both beautiful and glass hard.
Tung oil and danish oils are quick but sit on the surface like varnish.
Have fun its most satisfying.