Old landing net handle....
- BoltonBullfinch
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Old landing net handle....
I found a old 5ft bamboo landing net handle on fleabay a couple of days ago, it looked straight, it was flamed but looking a bit grubby and sorry for itself. It was only a few miles away so i offered the seller a fiver for it and he accepted my offer. I picked it up this morning, rubbed the old varnish off, and polished to brass female screw fitting. I was thinking of trying to extend the handle a couple of feet but don't have any idea how to, so I think it will be a rubber stopper at the rear. There are a couple of small cracks in the bamboo so I was thinking of doing a whipping every couple of inches and then a few coats of varnish. I will post a picture when it's finished.
'We fish a lot' Forrest Gump.
- Watermole+
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Re: Old landing net handle....
You can extend the handle a little if you wish, but with cane, it’s not really practical to make it much more than about 6’ as the leverage puts a big strain on it. Most traditional Richard Walker patter carp nets have a handle of about 5 1/2’ if that is any guide?
If the current length is about 5’, the best solution would be to make a short extension from a piece of solid hardwood dowelling such as oak, which will last forever.
By far and away the strongest way to join the two is firstly trim up the end of the bamboo square, cutting off any bad material.
With a large ‘rat tail’ (coarse round) file, clean up the soft pithy stuff inside and making the hole as round as possible. Never be tempted to use a drill of any kind..that is inviting disaster or possible injury. Your hardwood dowel should now have a spigot turned or cut to fit inside the bamboo with a wood rasp, which should enter by at least two inches, preferably three. Do not try and get a tight fit..the bamboo will almost certainly split otherwise. When the two are ready for assembly, you will need a short piece of tubing, about one inch long-an old brass ferrule or piece of tubing perhaps?- to overlap the joint of both pieces. Generously fill the inside of the bamboo with strong wood glue (Tip: do not use any expanding type..that will split it!) position the metal ferrule over one part, assemble together, centralise the metal over both and set aside for at least two days to solidify inside.
When dry, rub down well with fine sandpaper before finishing. Personally, I don’t like whippings and thick varnish. A far nicer finish can be obtained with linseed oil, or Danish oil. It is a slow job building up the finish, but the result will be ten times better and be both durable and waterproof. Plus, you can easily wipe over again with oil to restore the sheen. You don’t have to fil in any minor cracks either..the oil will do this for you!
Hope this may be of some help..
wm+
If the current length is about 5’, the best solution would be to make a short extension from a piece of solid hardwood dowelling such as oak, which will last forever.
By far and away the strongest way to join the two is firstly trim up the end of the bamboo square, cutting off any bad material.
With a large ‘rat tail’ (coarse round) file, clean up the soft pithy stuff inside and making the hole as round as possible. Never be tempted to use a drill of any kind..that is inviting disaster or possible injury. Your hardwood dowel should now have a spigot turned or cut to fit inside the bamboo with a wood rasp, which should enter by at least two inches, preferably three. Do not try and get a tight fit..the bamboo will almost certainly split otherwise. When the two are ready for assembly, you will need a short piece of tubing, about one inch long-an old brass ferrule or piece of tubing perhaps?- to overlap the joint of both pieces. Generously fill the inside of the bamboo with strong wood glue (Tip: do not use any expanding type..that will split it!) position the metal ferrule over one part, assemble together, centralise the metal over both and set aside for at least two days to solidify inside.
When dry, rub down well with fine sandpaper before finishing. Personally, I don’t like whippings and thick varnish. A far nicer finish can be obtained with linseed oil, or Danish oil. It is a slow job building up the finish, but the result will be ten times better and be both durable and waterproof. Plus, you can easily wipe over again with oil to restore the sheen. You don’t have to fil in any minor cracks either..the oil will do this for you!
Hope this may be of some help..
wm+
"Are not two sparrows sold for a farthing? Yet one of them shall not fall without your Father knoweth" ..Jesus of Nazareth, King James AV
- BoltonBullfinch
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Re: Old landing net handle....
Thanks for the advice, but as its a tad over 5ft I will probably leave it as it is. I think I have some Danish oil or it could well be tung oil.
Thanks
BB
Thanks
BB
'We fish a lot' Forrest Gump.
- BoltonBullfinch
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Re: Old landing net handle....
I have also ordered a new landing net from OMR to go with this handle.
Thanks
BB
Thanks
BB
'We fish a lot' Forrest Gump.
- BoltonBullfinch
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Re: Old landing net handle....
It seems that it was teak oil I had, so that's what has been used, several coats of the stuff, and I will keep using it as the can is nearly empty. Sadly I could not find a brass butt piece so used a aluminium and rubber one from guidesnblanks.
Thanks
BB
Thanks
BB
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'We fish a lot' Forrest Gump.