Touch ledgering.

[MaggotDrowner]

Being a bit of a float fanatic I very rarely fish the ledger. In fact I only really fish the ledger for big carp and occasionally I'll put out a bonus ledger rod for the tench while concentrating mainly on a float rod. But I have never touch ledgered.

However I'll be employing the method tomorrow for the first time on a farm pond where bites from carp can be plentiful if you get things right. I'll probably use a link ledger with just a few BBs or a swan shot on.

Any tips for a novice? How long a link would you use? What is the feeling like? Should I strike at persistent taps for wait for a solid pull?

Looking forward to tomorrows session. I'll probably have another go at swing tipping while I'm there too. I had a couple of carp on that last year.

[Kingfisher]

A method I've never tried on a still water MD, best of luck with it though. I'll look forward to reading how you've got on.

[MaggotDrowner]

A method I've never tried on a still water MD, best of luck with it though. I'll look forward to reading how you've got on.

I think it should work? I cannot see why it wouldn't. I know most do it on rivers, but I thought it would be good to practice somewhere I am confident of more bites.

[Beresford]

You won't be under any doubt when a carp picks up the bait. If you can I'd free line rather than ledger.

Don't be tempted to loop the line around your finger, hold it between thumb and forefinger or middle finger in such a way that it can be pulled out of your digits easily. Get it wrong and you're possibly in for nasty cuts or burns – seriously.

Can I just ask why you are touch ledgering for carp? I've always though the method great for shy biting fish or fish when you need to hit the bite quickly.

[Kingfisher]

I think in Redmire Legends CY demonstrates it for carp just before he catches the 24 pounder (?) on dog biscuits off the top. The scene where he's teasing the bait towards the carp and says "It has to think that it's nothing more than a change in the wind's direction, bringing the bait towards it".

If you do do it ledgering MD, make sure you have a running ledger rig, so that the loose line can be pulled with ease and the fish doesn't feel any resistence, until it feels your fingers on the line.

Tight lines!!

[Dave Burr]

Your biggest challenge will be to avoid striking at every indication MD. But when you've calmed down a bit you will soon learn what's a bit and what's a liner or tiddler. I just hang the line across my index finger tip which leaves my left hand free for drinking coffee etc. It works well in still water especially where the fish are finicky, you will enjoy it.

[Santiago]

I've caught loads of nice roach and a few big bream and chub this summer after following Dave's advice!

Also try to point the rod tip towards the bait and put the rod on a rest whilst holding it at the reel seat. Use enough lead to prevent the business end moving (snagging) whilst still being able to keep the line tight at the finger, I use about 1/2 to 1oz but no more but that's on the Thames so in still water you will get away with a bit less!

It's a great method and you can look around more and take in the environment much better!

[Chubman]

i touch ledger quite a bit for chub and barbel but have never tryed it on still water, i use no more than a single swan shot the bait being heavy enough to allow me to cast far enough out and lay the line lightly over my first index finger,ive had fish that have lifted the line hardly at all,the slightest twitch and i strike.i see modern day anglers fishing the feeder or with heavy leadgers far out with the rod held high staring at the rod tip waiting for bites that will never register on the tip as the line will have a large bow in it,allways keep the line over your finger and slightly above the first rod ring with a little tension, that way your in direct contact with the bait.best of luck chubman.

[Santiago]

I think when you strike depends on the species you're expecting to catch. Especially so with bream for if you were to strike at a twitch you would miss most bites; for bream I let the bite develop into a rapid series of twitches or a pull. But for chub you have to be quick to connect to their often single rapid pluck.

For roach I started experimenting with a much longer hook link of about 24" and then started to hit most bites; I think that for fish that pick food up with their lips before sucking into their mouths this works because they feel less resistance and have more time to get the food/hook to the inside of their lips. So with a shorter hook link the plucks you feel and strike at will simply pull the bait/hook away away from the fishes lips and not catch! Walker explained this very well in one of his books but I have it at home and forget the title. Think of it like this, when a shoal fish like a roach picks up a food particle from the bottom they often swim away from the other roach before actually sucking the particle into their mouths, and the shorter the hook link the more likely that the bait will pull out of their lips when the hook link tightens to the lead/rod tip; so the pluck you feel is from a fish that already has expelled the hook.

But with carp I expect as they feel resistance they will bolt and hook themselves. Anyways, since I've never caught carp by touch ledgering I'll say no more!

[Snape]

Richard Walker claimed touch ledgering doesn't work in still water but I have done it successfully in the past. I used it for the wildies at Pant-y-llyn this summer successfully. In the past I have used a freelined lump of luncheon meat and when the carp pick it up and swim off there is no mistaking.
It is my favourite method on rivers for chub and barbel as you fell every plink and knock and temble. Then the almighty yank (if it is is a barbel)! Really exciting stuff.