Richard Walker 10ft fibreglass rod

[Ambidexman]

I have acquired a Hardy 10ft Richard Walker fibreglass carp rod. It has yellow whippings, all the eyes look good and original but the varnish had lots of chip marks throughout the rods entire length. I have removed the original varnish using the back edge of a hacksaw blade (not the cutting edge) so would like to re-varnish it. Can anyone advise if I need to coat the rod before I put on the varnish. Also, can anyone advise the best sort of varnish for this rod? Many thanks

[Liphook]

I take it yours is the brown blank? A very light sanding then wipe down with meths before applying Bondaseal and turning is what I do with glass. Nice blanks the Hardy Fibatube carp. Light enough and robust. How is the spigot for wear?

[Ambidexman]

Thank you Liphook. Yes it is the brown blank version, I have used it several times and feel it will handle some decent size fish. The spigot is pretty worn but holds at the moment. Any suggestions?

[Liphook]

If you're stripping it back the it would be a good idea to trim the female back a few mm. It'll go on for another few decades then

[Duckett]

An alternative to what Liphook suggests for the ferrules, if you don’t want to take a hacksaw to the rod, is the spray that modern pole anglers use to build up ferrules. I used the Garbalino version on my Hardy Fred Taylor Trotter and it worked a dream. Only thing is, it’s white in colour.

Phil

[Liphook]

That's interesting Duckett as the Garbolino joint build spray I have is black, are you using the joint saver perhaps? I know that folk have used car spay paint, varnish, epoxy, superglue, nail varnish and even slivers of cigarette paper etc. My 1st port of call would be to rub candle wax on the male before doing anything more drastic! All the above are temporary fixes but can serve the purpose depending on how much use the rod gets. I should also mention that I don't use a hacksaw but a dremel with cutting disk securely mounted in a clamp with a jig/guide to allow the blank to be offered up to the cutter and accurately rotated - sounds complicated but in reality it's just a few bits of wood! Also remember to wrap the area to be trimmed tightly with tape and beware of ripping/splintering. Rotate the blank against the disc and cut an ever deepening groove around the blank rather than attempting to cut through the blank wall in one pass.
In the time it's taken me to type that I could have taped and trimmed half a dozen!

[Duebel]

Good luck with refurbishing your Richard Walker Carp, Ambidexman! Your post reminded me of using mine more often.

[Ambidexman]

Thank you all so much for your tips and help. I will post a pic when finished (hopefully) with a good looking fish.

I do though have one more question. Many years ago I acquired two genuine ‘Richard Walker’ autographs. They were signed by Mr Walker in Indian ink on parchment. I am ‘considering’ (?) affixing one of them to the butt section. I have a good scanner so could scan one and affix that instead. Anyone got any thoughts in what course of action I should take and also, how would it be best to affix it? The original Hardy ‘Richard Walker’ has almost disintegrated.

[Duebel]

Thank you all so much for your tips and help. I will post a pic when finished (hopefully) with a good looking fish.

I do though have one more question. Many years ago I acquired two genuine ‘Richard Walker’ autographs. They were signed by Mr Walker in Indian ink on parchment. I am ‘considering’ (?) affixing one of them to the butt section. I have a good scanner so could scan one and affix that instead. Anyone got any thoughts in what course of action I should take and also, how would it be best to affix it? The original Hardy ‘Richard Walker’ has almost disintegrated.

Our fellow TFFer Old Tackle is quite good at making decals. You could probably ask him via PM.

[Duckett]

That's interesting Duckett as the Garbolino joint build spray I have is black, are you using the joint saver perhaps? I know that folk have used car spay paint, varnish, epoxy, superglue, nail varnish and even slivers of cigarette paper etc. My 1st port of call would be to rub candle wax on the male before doing anything more drastic! All the above are temporary fixes but can serve the purpose depending on how much use the rod gets. I should also mention that I don't use a hacksaw but a dremel with cutting disk securely mounted in a clamp with a jig/guide to allow the blank to be offered up to the cutter and accurately rotated - sounds complicated but in reality it's just a few bits of wood! Also remember to wrap the area to be trimmed tightly with tape and beware of ripping/splintering. Rotate the blank against the disc and cut an ever deepening groove around the blank rather than attempting to cut through the blank wall in one pass.
In the time it's taken me to type that I could have taped and trimmed half a dozen!

This is what I used. A friend recommended it to me.