Sliders

[Duebel]

For the top slider, I have used a vastly different method. I take about 10mm of silicon small bore tubing, thread it onto a stemmed float just oversize. I then spray the silicon tubing with Superglue activator, blob a little superglue on the outside of the float I am converting, swiftly hold the silicon tube against the float, slight pressure on the tube, and within 2-3 seconds I have a perfect bond, and withdraw the stemmed float leaving the tubing on the required float. I have done similar to the bottom if without an eye, or just bent up the existing eye (wired) to 90 degrees.

Te best place to buy the activator and superglue in my experience is Eurocell - cost about £5.

I have sliders I made 4-5 years ago, and the tubing is still in place, although I admit to only using them very infrequently.

I've read your description twice now. My English and my engineering skills don't cooperate. Could please show a picture of the end result?

[Troydog]

Thank you Robbi and Phil - some great ideas....

[Troydog]

Thank you all!!

[Fred]

Troydog if you get a piece wood and two small nails and some brass wire you can make your own eyes for all your floats.

[Barbelseeker]

next job

[Barbelseeker]

Here is how do it - "Patent Pending"; "Royalties accepted" - two minute job. Done it on a float, so you can see all the steps.

Firstly, all the bits and bob's - the activator and the glue, the silicon tubing - either from a pole float set, or a length of tubing from Nick Gilbert, plus some float stems which fit into the tubing.



Decide which tubing to use, thread it onto bottom of your float, which you will use to present it to the float you want to modify.



Cut silicon to desired length.



Spray outside of silicon tube and the section of the desired float, where you intend to place the tubing with activator. Place a smear of glue along the desired location of the tubing, then using the float with the small section of the tubing on, place and apply light pressure. The reason I do it like this, is it prevents the fingers coming into contact with the glue.



I normally spray with activator again as it makes all the glue go off, pull out the float stem.
Repeat for the top end




Jobs a good 'un.

[Santiago]

Excellent. If you turn the top piece of silicon 90 degrees, reduce the width, and glue it about two cm above the bottom piece, the slider will find the depth by itself, and you won't need stop knots. Simply cast it out, and tighten the line once the float has come to the surface. Well it works with wire sliders, so worth a try!

[Barbelseeker]

I tend sometimes to use this set up, as a jigger float, on smaller floats. I can lift the bait, a few inches and drop it, enticing the fish to investigate and bite, without disturbing the float

[Barbelseeker]

Did you mean dispense with top slider, or use the additional 90 degrees, like this. Not often I fish waters over 10' deep.

[Santiago]

Did you mean dispense with top slider, or use the additional 90 degrees, like this. Not often I fish waters over 10' deep.

Like that, but possibly another cm between the two, whatever works. But without the top piece. Best used in deeper water, especially when expecting less than delicate bites from perch, chub or carp.