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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:09 am 
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Ruffe
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Location: East Grinstead, Sussex
The bail arm on my Mitchell 300 reel no longer locks down into the position that it normally reside after casting and winding the reel a few turns (hopefully, you can understand you explanation!!).

After removing the bail arm and inspecting the spring, it appears in-tact (i.e. not too loose, or too flat).

I have attached some pictures.

Any tips or advice would be appreciated. If replacement parts are required, part ids and/or links would be very useful.

Image

Image

Image


Thanks

..............
Sion


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:20 am 
You either have a bent bail arm or more likely the bail spring is broken. How to replace a spring in words is almost impossible so watch this Youtube video instead: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_muYtp4J5f4


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:28 am 
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Bailiff
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Sometimes it is just stiff and need some light oil.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:57 am 
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Pike
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Weyfarer's link to Wallace on Youtube is a perfect expalanation of how to do this and this is the method I use. Putting the spring on the rotor first seems the right way to go, but it's actually harder to achieve as the sring tang won't easilly go into the recieving hole on the bale wire...nor does it want to stay there.


Before fitting the spring it's worth checking that the bale wire isn't bent...they very often are, and this causes binding after fitting. This is particularly relevant to your reel as it has clearly been dropped and the foot broken.


If you're ever up SW Surrey way, I have a repaired body you can have for nothing. The stem had been snapped and expertly repaired many, many years ago. It doesn't look much but at least it'll stay on your rod.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:06 pm 
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Chub
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Mine gets like that sometimes, usually after I drop it in the mud. Wash it and squirt some WD 40 around both ends of the bail arm, that usually does the trick.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:13 pm 
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Grayling
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I had a 308 with this problem and it turned out that the part of the bail arm that sits over the spring and through which the large securing screw passes had worn through the chrome plating on the screw side to the metal below which I think was brass.The uneveness of the surface between the screw and the bale arm caused the bale arm to not close properly and constantly need easing closed after casting. I ultimately replaced the bale arm and 'voila' happiness restored.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 10:44 pm 
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Ruffe
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Location: East Grinstead, Sussex
Thanks for all the advice.

The 'YouTube' clip is certainly very informative and I now believe the bail arm may be slightly bent.

I have to admit that my much loved reel did drop at one stage (almost cried!) and although it has been working since, it may have become bent slightly out of shaped and worked it's way loose.

Will have another look and report back.

Cheers.

Sion.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:27 pm 
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Ruffe
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Location: East Grinstead, Sussex
Ok - I have now fixed the bail arm, it appeared that the spring had came out of the receiving hole on the bale arm. I also bent the bale arm back into shape slightly. The arm is now springing back nicely into position after winding the reel.

However, after re-assembling the reel it does not appear to be quite right. After winding the reel for 40 - 50 turns, the locking nut tightens and the handle will only turn very stiffly. After loosing the locking nut, however it turns nicely again.

Has anyone else had this issue?

Thanks (again!)

Sion


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 1:54 pm 
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Pike
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Location: S.W.Surrey
Which locking nut is this Sion?


The only nut I can think of is the one on the baffle plate in the rotor.


Let me know the part number or name from this diagram and I'll see if I can help:,,use the 1958 drawings, they're the biggest:




http://mitchellreelmuseum.com/index.php ... &Itemid=72

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 9:37 pm 
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Ruffe
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Location: East Grinstead, Sussex
The baffle plate holding nut (#35) appears to be tightening against the baffle plate (#41) and rotating head screw thread after 40 - 50 turns.

Could this be due to shims be missing from somewhere? I have two directly below the baffle plate.


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