The Traditional Fisherman's Forum

Wal , thanks for that... "The thread on the speedia nut is a standard right hand thread."

We plod slowly on... wally-cast's solution has been embraced and an old-fashioned adjustable is on its way. Silly price at six quid posted. 30p if your not impatient would be my guess

sorry if I've not been around lately ,but I've read through this thread and I think I've the jist of it .

firstly speedia's fall into two types early (A) and improved (B) and theres a few differences

type A has a brass grub screw that's wider than type B's and a different thread size still Ba though I think.(i'd have to check)

Type B is steel and should be 6Ba unless altered .

both types has one phosphor bronze bushing which is a interference fit and situated at the base of the spindle housing behind the ratchet cog ,although you could possibly fit another down there,but it might increase friction/drag with increased surfaced / contact area .the endfloat housing isn't a bush (unless the adjustment is way off or the screw face is worn) as in normal use isn't in contact with the spindle pin .and theres three different versions of housing ,two are from the early (A) type and the thin turret of the (B) type.

the later improved model (B) bush is prone to wear either oval or too bevel due to heavy use .

its advisable to change both or go over sized and true the bushing (re-bore) to suite .although it is possible to make new bushings (I've tried and succeeded ,all be it at the cost of ruined phosphor bronze rod as I don't have coolant on my lathe ) getting it to match a existing spindle isn't easy theres a fine line between success and scrap .it would be easier too make a precise measured new spindle and work too that .

there should be a thread someware (on second thoughts it might be on the other traditional forum) showing how to remove both the end float housing and bush on the later improved model (type B) the early models endfloat housings simply unscrewed but you'll need to make a tool to do it right .

if anything else comes to mind i'll add to this post.

Thanks for a lot of useful info Chavander. On the question of the bush you can buy them near to the finished size. Mounted on a mandrel, it could be trimmed to a light interference fit with just manual lubing? Internal sizing could be tricky as bronze can 'grab' at a tool. A close pass with a correctly profiled drill then trim to size with a reamer would be my choice. All 'pie in the sky' as the small lathe I had use of has been sold on.

Been a bit idle recently. Did score a wide drum recently without ratchet or spring. As it came spun for 40 secs. Flushed it out with cellulose thinners on cotton buds. You get an idea how much grunge is in there. After coming out clean filled it with thinners and after a while remove the grub screw to get the fluid out quickly. A blast of compressed air and I think is clean.

Started off with three drops of sewing machine oil. Spun for the same time. Added three more drops. Got 50_60 secs. Added the same again. 70 secs. No surplus oil on the backplate means it's probably being taken up by the bronze bearing. The added oil reduced the contact between spindle and bush and increases the run time I think. It feels that way in the hand anyways...

All the bits to remove and re-profile the spindle are in place. Just needs a more dynamic Beryl. I'm exhausted after an epic battle with our toilet system over the new year..... How is it your plumbing always knows it's Christmas?

Ps: just flicking it now and again whilst watching the telly for half an hour. Now a minute and a half!

Ps: 1:45. That's probably it. Just a good flush out, some oil and a bit of a run it in thingy. Not a bad return for the effort.