Mitchell 300 black paint advice please

[Mercman]

Good morning gentlemen... I would like some advice please.

I am contemplating restoring a Mitchell 300 with scruffy paint.

Can anyone please explain the best way to repaint the reel and what primer and black paint to use to get close to the factory finish please.

Thank you for any comments and help you may be able to give.

[Beresford]

I'd say next to impossible to match the factory quality finish unless you spend a lot of money and have it done for you but I stand to be corrected. I'm guessing it would need an proper acid etch primer to give any paint half a chance of staying on the metal and not rubbing straight off. All the rattle cans of car paint are acrylic and will be useless long-term in a fishing environment unless you can find cellulose versions and you might do since it's black. Google Cloistermans and see what you can find. I use their acid etch primer and it works very well but you must wear a proper breathing mask as it is industrial paint and not designed for the home user. It seems to be a cellulose base and you really don't want to be breathing that in. I suspect they do a black paint as well, perhaps in a rattle can. You'll only ever match the factory finish spraying it with some skill – easier with an airbrush than rattle can.

Alternatively you could get it powder coated but that will cost you more than hunting down a mint condition one.

You could strip the paint off completely and have a spitfire finish.

Or you could choose not to match the factory quality and just spray it with an enamel like Hammerite smooth but it will be much thicker and glossier than the factory finish.

[Mercman]

Beresford

Thank you very much for your comments, and for taking the time to be so informative... much appreciated.

[Beresford]

Not a problem. I'm sorry if I've come across as negative – that certainly wasn't my intention.

I should add that I use the acid etch for priming metal for one of my other hobbies and not fishing reels.

[Kingfisher2007]

How do you fill in the chips on these reels. I have had mine since the 70s

[Ian.R.McDonald]

they are not chips, just badges of proper useage!

[Kingfisher2007]

Too true Ian. I have 2 old ones. Used through out 70s,and 80s for all my fishing.

[Nobby]

Because I was providing a properly serviced reel when I restored and serviced Mitchell reels I always felt it was only right that I treated any corrosion and painted the affected area to stop it corroding again.

I found brush painted black cellulose the only thing that seemed to work, with the glossiness flatted-off about 4 hours afterwards with a lint-free cloth.


It didn't look that good, but it did work...I fished with just such a restored reel myself for a couple of seasons, but I fear it wouldn't do for what you are after.

Ray Moss was about the only feller in the UK who could do a proper job and I hope he will be doing them again one day, but he is currently recovering from a nasty set of burns. Get well soon Ray!

Beechmerelake is very knowledgeable about reel paint and believes the original Mitchell finish was sprayed and then baked on...a sort of stove enamelling, I suppose?

[Watermole+]

If I may add to that which Beresford and Nobby have correctly stated..

Brushing cellulose is very good indeed, providing you closely adhere to the makers instruction, but as already said, you really must acid etch first. With cast alloy, there is no alternative-if you want it to stay there!

The key to painting-in more ways than one-is preparation and the best preparation is bead-blasting with the finest grit, then, after thoroughly blowing out clean, straight on with the acid etch, which must be given a good length of time to eat in to the metal surface before hardening.

About acid etch..Most of that which you buy in a rattle can from well-known, motor factor shops is very poor quality. The reason is that, if acid etch is any good, it will eat its way through a can quite quickly! In other words, it has a very short shelf life and so you should buy yours only from a specialist paint supplier who will only keep up-to-the-minute paint in stock. Anything which has been sitting on the shelf for months is pointless because it is too weak.

For finish coating, brushing cellulose of any dark colour-though preferably black-will be alright, thinned well and worked quickly, then you can use a rattle can of silk finish black on top, as this keys quite well with cellulose. After a day's drying, cook slowly for a few hours in a very low oven and let it settle for a couple of days afterwards to allow hardening.

Painted thus, you will find it almost as durable as a factory finish!

Regards,

wm+

[Beresford]

wm+

Thank you that's really interesting to read. There are some two pack etch primers out there which I'm told are very good. Presumably they are good because they have a shelf-life as the catalyst is stored separately and can thus be quite potent, just a thought.