1960/70's Floats info wanted

[Liphook]

Interesting idea and history as ever on here gents I will copy that design, if I can, and use it in some quill floats I have in mind for my margin to 2 rod legths approach

I did actually try that system when they came out. A better system is to remove the eyes from your float and use Drennan swivel float attachments or something similar. I now never put eyes on floats attached bottom end only.

Interesting you say that as I've never been a fan of the silicone tube with trapped swivel! When setting up sensitive lift style or dotted right down on the crucian waters I fish, I find the trapped air slowly gets replaced with water and changes the buoyancy of the set up. Rest the swim and the buoyancy changes again as the water drips out/evaporates to be replaced by air. I was also thinking that quills might benefit from the strengthening at the base gained from a whipped on eye and that this system would give me the interchangeable benefit?

[Nobby]

These might be Max Winter floats...the size and font of the writing looks right....maybe the names got chipped off?

[Phil Arnott]

Interesting idea and history as ever on here gents I will copy that design, if I can, and use it in some quill floats I have in mind for my margin to 2 rod legths approach

I did actually try that system when they came out. A better system is to remove the eyes from your float and use Drennan swivel float attachments or something similar. I now never put eyes on floats attached bottom end only.

Interesting you say that as I've never been a fan of the silicone tube with trapped swivel! When setting up sensitive lift style or dotted right down on the crucian waters I fish, I find the trapped air slowly gets replaced with water and changes the buoyancy of the set up. Rest the swim and the buoyancy changes again as the water drips out/evaporates to be replaced by air. I was also thinking that quills might benefit from the strengthening at the base gained from a whipped on eye and that this system would give me the interchangeable benefit?

We are talking about switching floats with these systems, they are not really for use for very light floats, more like the ones in the picture. I use them on peacock quill wagglers and similar floats. I glue a short length of cane or brass rod in the float bottom.

If you want sensitivity then I don't think you can beat pole floats, you can even set up pole floats to be held up purely by the meniscus by greasing the bristle tip. I don't think you can go too sensitive for crucians judging by the number I've hooked by lifting the bait after having no indication on the float.

[Liphook]

You've hit the nail on the head there Phil - you can't fish sensitively enough for crucians at times. I think a bit of experimenting is required as I've not even started making my floats yet! Thanks for the ideas regarding the cane /brass bases I'm looking at making some long slim tipped antenna floats, possibly from goose quills, to replace the modern pole floats and canal crystals I've been reliant on. All ideas welcomed

[Liphook]

My apologies for pulling this thread off topic

[Phil Arnott]

You've hit the nail on the head there Phil - you can't fish sensitively enough for crucians at times. I think a bit of experimenting is required as I've not even started making my floats yet! Thanks for the ideas regarding the cane /brass bases I'm looking at making some long slim tipped antenna floats, possibly from goose quills, to replace the modern pole floats and canal crystals I've been reliant on. All ideas welcomed

Hi Liphook, I'd recommend you try to get hold of some peacock quill. It's dead easy to make good floats by making to bottom inserts as I suggested and adding a thinner bit of quill or other material at the top end if you want a finer tip (cocktail stick?). It's a very light material which takes a lot of shot and flies through the air when cast. The only problem is getting paint to stick. I tend to repaint mine when they've had a bit of a bashing.

I think a reversed crow quill could make a nice traditional crucian float. They take a BB and No4 maybe a bit more to get tip really low. Again they are every light and fly when cast.

[Liphook]

Cheers Phil - more materials to collect!

[Skinboy]

Thanks for the replies,interesting reading as always.

[John-A]

Interesting idea and history as ever on here gents I will copy that design, if I can, and use it in some quill floats I have in mind for my margin to 2 rod legths approach

I did actually try that system when they came out. A better system is to remove the eyes from your float and use Drennan swivel float attachments or something similar. I now never put eyes on floats attached bottom end only.

Interesting you say that as I've never been a fan of the silicone tube with trapped swivel! When setting up sensitive lift style or dotted right down on the crucian waters I fish, I find the trapped air slowly gets replaced with water and changes the buoyancy of the set up. Rest the swim and the buoyancy changes again as the water drips out/evaporates to be replaced by air. I was also thinking that quills might benefit from the strengthening at the base gained from a whipped on eye and that this system would give me the interchangeable benefit?

Just adding another idea that certainly dispenses with the problem of trapped air displacement, but aids in making quick & simple float changes.

I realise that this has a limit of how light you can go, but in my later match-fishing days I got into a habit of making loaded Peacock Quill floats using glued in short pieces of stiff Brass wire, the sort sold for making grips when moulding sea leads. I whip a fine eye onto each. I then slip into the eye a very small copper split-ring. (4mm or 5mm best)

When setting-up I thread the mainline through the split-ring and trap the float at the required depth using two silicone float stops. In the early versions I used those old style plastic ring & peg leger stops, but more recently the silicone stops because these allow for smooth depth adjustments.

Shotting-up takes account of the minimal weight added by the copper split ring, but I can slip the float eye out through the split-ring if I want to change floats.

In making my Peacock Quill floats I leave some without insert and just paint the tip, some have cocktail stick inserts glued in and some have plastic broom bristles glued in to make very sensitive, but visible tips on floats that are weighted to the tip of the quill. Varying quill length and the length of the brass insert can make an almost limitless range of floats and to avoid the issue of peeling paint, I usually only paint the tips or inserts and after sanding with a very fine glass-paper, I give the float several coats of cellulose dope.

[Liphook]

Interesting John-A! The rudimentary peacock quill floats I've 'made' so far have been simple lengths that are remnants from flytying ! Attached bottom only with float rubbers and cut to size with scissors for fishing the lift method within a rod length.