Mainline swan shot rig vs swan shot link ledger

[Olly]

I can do the same by by changing the weight on the swivel clip - also to a lead - feeder or whatever. I never use a quiver tip rod for float fishing.

I have always used the silicone for wagglers - you can alter the depth much easier with the 'slipperyness' of silicone rubber! It is of a similar size to feeding through a drilled non-lead substitute, coffin, barrel or bullet.

Ledger stops as per Drennan are a nightmare as is anything that crushes the line. I use them as a 'line break' tool when fishing a paternoster for pike. They are also useful as a holder of a paste/cheese bait wrapped around it on a hair.

The Drennan ' Gripper' float stops have been recommended but I am yet to use them.

Finally I have lost fish due to line breakage - down to early lead shot substitute - some of which were absolute rubbish!

You learn a lot from match fishing, having a tackle shop, specimen hunting, etc!

[Stuart Whiting]

I'd say that if anyone has had line break through shot directly on the line and unfortunately lost any fish I onestly would say that it's quite rare for this to actually happen, of all the people who I've ever known has never ever lost a fish because of this particular very simple but effective rig, I certainly haven't in 36 years of fishing

Quite rare for it too happen is far too often for me. It is a simple fact that squashed monofilament is usually weakened. If the shot is 'only just' squeezed on then you have potential sliding issues which I don't want. Cold fingers, fine diameter lines and large SSG shot don't go together well when trying to squeeze the shot on at just the right tension. It allows for human error. You may not ever have lost a fish doing it your way but if you do the tests you will find your line is weakened.

Hi Shaun,

I I can fully understand in what your saying, in truth if I could get away with free lining and no weight at all then this would suit me fine, it's just me mate, I hate adding extra perhaps unnecessary gizmos and gadgets to to me line

In reality I do also under stand that it's gonna cause the line to be weakened but this way I only use one knot and that is obviously the hook, any extra knots in a rig is surely gonna also be weak spots.

I suppose if I started to lose to many fish I'd then obviously go back to the drawing board and come up with something else

Stuart

[Stuart Whiting]

I can do the same by by changing the weight on the swivel clip - also to a lead - feeder or whatever. I never use a quiver tip rod for float fishing.

I have always used the silicone for wagglers - you can alter the depth much easier with the 'slipperyness' of silicone rubber! It is of a similar size to feeding through a drilled non-lead substitute, coffin, barrel or bullet.

Ledger stops as per Drennan are a nightmare as is anything that crushes the line. I use them as a 'line break' tool when fishing a paternoster for pike. They are also useful as a holder of a paste/cheese bait wrapped around it on a hair.

The Drennan ' Gripper' float stops have been recommended but I am yet to use them.

Finally I have lost fish due to line breakage - down to early lead shot substitute - some of which were absolute rubbish!

You learn a lot from match fishing, having a tackle shop, specimen hunting, etc!

Hi Olly,

I can go along with that, all makes sense, respect

Stuart

[Shaun Harrison]

I'd say that if anyone has had line break through shot directly on the line and unfortunately lost any fish I onestly would say that it's quite rare for this to actually happen, of all the people who I've ever known has never ever lost a fish because of this particular very simple but effective rig, I certainly haven't in 36 years of fishing

Quite rare for it too happen is far too often for me. It is a simple fact that squashed monofilament is usually weakened. If the shot is 'only just' squeezed on then you have potential sliding issues which I don't want. Cold fingers, fine diameter lines and large SSG shot don't go together well when trying to squeeze the shot on at just the right tension. It allows for human error. You may not ever have lost a fish doing it your way but if you do the tests you will find your line is weakened.

Hi Shaun,

I I can fully understand in what your saying, in truth if I could get away with free lining and no weight at all then this would suit me fine, it's just me mate, I hate adding extra perhaps unnecessary gizmos and gadgets to to me line

In reality I do also under stand that it's gonna cause the line to be weakened but this way I only use one knot and that is obviously the hook, any extra knots in a rig is surely gonna also be weak spots.

I suppose if I started to lose to many fish I'd then obviously go back to the drawing board and come up with something else

Stuart

I have no gizmos on my line as you eloquently put it. My river roving box contains hooks, SSG and AA shot. Newplast (modern none smelling plasticine) and a slightly finer diameter hook link. I want to be in total control of where the line breaks so that I'm never going to be leaving more than a hook and/or a few inches of hook link material behind.

Using the fixed paternoster I favour (so that a trundled bait will continue to trundle, rather than find my hook caught up so that I've just spent the last 15 minutes trundling my weight down the river without the bait) it ensures I know exactly what and where anything is going to break and also allows the shot to slide off the link in an emergency (playing a fish that has swung into roots) far more efficiently than a shot clamped on the hook link.

But of course, each to their own, don't fix it until it breaks, but I'd rather not have to fix it.

[Stuart Whiting]

I favour a short fixed paternoster, no rig bits, just a knot to create a separate link to pinch my shot to so that it falls off of it's own piece of line easier if it become snagged rather than slide down to the hook. Keeping the shot on it's own little piece of line negates the one in a 100 or whatever number you wish to invent chance of ever damaging the hook link with it.
For very slow water I use a slightly longer shot link so that a direct pull isn't necessarily hitting the shot before my finger and rod top.
Shot direct on the line works for many but I try and avoid any issue regardless how rare because the little niggling git in my mind tells me that rare incident will raise its head on the most important fish.

Hi Shaun ,

Any chance of a pics of your preferred rig or even a sketch, would just be interested to see and visualise the mechanics of your mentioned rig/ tactics

In truth Shaun I have tried most rigs out there but have gone right back to basics using me shot on the line rig with no problems but am also looking for another simple but affective rig, perhaps something rather unique

Stuart

[Olly]

I am like Shaun - 'Don't want to risk it!'

[Shaun Harrison]

I favour a short fixed paternoster, no rig bits, just a knot to create a separate link to pinch my shot to so that it falls off of it's own piece of line easier if it become snagged rather than slide down to the hook. Keeping the shot on it's own little piece of line negates the one in a 100 or whatever number you wish to invent chance of ever damaging the hook link with it.
For very slow water I use a slightly longer shot link so that a direct pull isn't necessarily hitting the shot before my finger and rod top.
Shot direct on the line works for many but I try and avoid any issue regardless how rare because the little niggling git in my mind tells me that rare incident will raise its head on the most important fish.

Hi Shaun ,

Any chance of a pics of your preferred rig or even a sketch, would just be interested to see and visualise the mechanics of your mentioned rig/ tactics

Stuart

I'm no artist

The shot link is drawn long and is how I use it in semi slack water, if in a decent flow this is shortened right down. looks far more complicated than it is due to all the scribbled writing but reasons for each item.

Basically it is a straight forward loop to loop attachment as most would do whilst float fishing but the tag end left in place on the heavier loop.

I do twist the loops these days rather than leaving them open. Simple, effective, never tangles and I'm in total control how much line I leave behind on a snag. Snags would be far smaller if everyone else left less line on them. I carry a few hook lengths with loops so on the bank on a re-tackle it's a simple loop in the end of the main line, pinch a shot on and then loop to loop a fresh hook link. Seconds to do.

[Keston]

The Drennan ' Gripper' float stops have been recommended but I am yet to use them.
!

Not very traditional I know but I do confess to using these float stops quite a lot . I've found them very useful and versatile including using them to form a shot link.
John

[Shaun Harrison]

Hi Shaun ,

Any chance of a pics of your preferred rig or even a sketch, would just be interested to see and visualise the mechanics of your mentioned rig/ tactics

Stuart[/quote]




I'm no artist

The shot link is drawn long and is how I use it in semi slack water, if in a decent flow this is shortened right down. looks far more complicated than it is due to all the scribbled writing but reasons for each item.

Basically it is a straight forward loop to loop attachment as most would do whilst float fishing but the tag end left in place on the heavier loop.

I do twist the loops these days rather than leaving them open. Simple, effective, never tangles and I'm in total control how much line I leave behind on a snag. Snags would be far smaller if everyone else left less line on them. I carry a few hook lengths with loops so on the bank on a re-tackle it's a simple loop in the end of the main line, pinch a shot on and then loop to loop a fresh hook link. Seconds to do.[/quote]

Not reproduced on tinypic very clearly. Photobucket wont let me use them now unless I pay them what I consider too much to use their facility.

Top bubble says...
Figure of 8 twisted loops to create a mini boom then attached loop to loop.

Left lower bubble
Tag end left for shot

Middle bubble
Shot with Newplast wrap to infinitely adjust the weight and to negate gravel rattle

End Bubble
Finer diameter hook link ensures any breakage will be here or here.

[Shaun Harrison]

Hi Shaun ,

Any chance of a pics of your preferred rig or even a sketch, would just be interested to see and visualise the mechanics of your mentioned rig/ tactics

Stuart

I'm no artist

The shot link is drawn long and is how I use it in semi slack water, if in a decent flow this is shortened right down. looks far more complicated than it is due to all the scribbled writing but reasons for each item.

Basically it is a straight forward loop to loop attachment as most would do whilst float fishing but the tag end left in place on the heavier loop.

I do twist the loops these days rather than leaving them open. Simple, effective, never tangles and I'm in total control how much line I leave behind on a snag. Snags would be far smaller if everyone else left less line on them. I carry a few hook lengths with loops so on the bank on a re-tackle it's a simple loop in the end of the main line, pinch a shot on and then loop to loop a fresh hook link. Seconds to do.[/quote]

Not reproduced on tinypic very clearly. Photobucket wont let me use them now unless I pay them what I consider too much to use their facility.

Top bubble says...
Figure of 8 twisted loops to create a mini boom then attached loop to loop.

Left lower bubble
Tag end left for shot

Middle bubble
Shot with Newplast wrap to infinitely adjust the weight and to negate gravel rattle

End Bubble
Finer diameter hook link ensures any breakage will be here or here.[/quote]